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Concrete & Masonry · 7 min read

Building a paver patio: base, sand and pavers

The base does the work and the pavers just look good. A layer-by-layer takeoff for patios, paths and driveways.

Pavers fail from the bottom up. Sunken ruts, rocking pavers and weeds almost always trace back to too little base, poor compaction or bad drainage. Estimate the layers properly and the pavers take care of themselves.

The layers

  1. Excavation: the total depth of every layer, plus the paver thickness, minus how high the finished surface sits above the ground.
  2. Sub-grade: the natural ground, compacted. Remove soft spots.
  3. Geotextile on clay or soft soils.
  4. Base: crushed stone or road base, compacted in layers.
  5. Bedding: about 1" of concrete sand, screeded and not compacted.
  6. Pavers and edge restraint.
  7. Joint sand: polymeric sand, swept in and compacted.

How thick?

UseBase
Paths and patios4–6"
Driveways (cars)8–12"
Poor or clay groundAdd 2–4" and geotextile

Fall

Patios need a fall away from buildings so water drains: about ⅛–¼" per foot (1–2%). Build the fall into the base, not the sand bed.

Quantities

Pavers = area ÷ (paver + joint module), plus 5–10% waste, or 12–15% for herringbone and curves. Base volume = area × depth, plus about 20% for compaction. The paver calculator works out every layer, the joint sand and the edging in one go.

Don't forget

  • Removing the dug soil, which swells when dug
  • Plate compactor and cutter hire
  • Drainage channels at thresholds
  • Keeping the finished level below the sill plate and weep holes

This guide is general information for estimating. It is not engineering, legal or tax advice. Check local codes and your inspector for your project.

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